This is just a basic breeding formula for Large Adult Female and Male Ball Pythons. Females that are at least three years of age generally make better breeders. Once you go through the breeding process you can change, add or delete what works for you and what does not.  First off, you want to make sure your Adult female Ball Pythons have good weight. Make sure they are in excellent health (no respiratory problems) the cooling and breeding process can be taxing for a healthy snake much less an ill snake.  

•             October 1^St, shut off all heating and lights in the snake room at night. Allow the temperature to drop to room temperature it will be between 70-75F which should last 12 to 14 Hrs.  During daytime heat and lights should be turn back on to normal, temperature approximately 85-88F. You can put all of your heating elements on timers for convenience. No food given during this period. Note: the beginning of your breeding season can begin either earlier or later. Some breeders in the northern part of the country start in October and some in the southern part of the country start as late as January. One way around in which you dictate the terms of your breeding season is to create an artificial environment by using an air-conditioning unit.  

•             November 1^st remove male from his cage and introduce him to the female's cage once a week for two days giving him one to two days rest between copulations. He is then removed and put back in his cage. Continue process until February 15 (Four months breeding period). This method has worked well for me. I use the three females to one male ratio some breeders use the five to one ratio. 

•            February 16^th temperature back to normal (85-88F) and food can be offered.  Offer smaller food items than usual. Usually every 12-14 days. Females that are gravid will often refuse food at this time.  Gravid female will keep eggs in her body for 50 to 120 days, usually about to 60 to 70 days.  After about 25 days of gravidity, the rear end of the female abdomen takes on a plump appearance (ovulation) which visually can last 24 hours. About 30 days after ovulation the female will enter a shed cycle which could last 12-14 days. The date of actual shed is very important, egg-laying usually occurs 25-30 days later.  When ovulation occurs the male’s job is done and the female will start to lay cold. She will spend more time in the cooler end of the cage and will even wrap around their water bowl. The female will usually stop feeding after the third week of gravidity, and will not feed again until the eggs are hatched.  A gravid snake should be handled as little as possible. 

•              April-June egg-laying will usually occur. 

•              52-60 days later eggs will begin to hatch. Eggs in the same clutch do not necessarily hatch at the same time, sometimes they hatch days apart. Be patient, many people cut the eggs too premature and this can cause heath problems with the hatchlings. 

•            If female is allowed to incubate her eggs daytime temperature should be 86-90 F.  Nighttime temperature should be reduced to 77F. 

•            If artificial incubation, 86-90F.  The eggs should be placed in moist vermiculite.  It is important to maintain a high humidity (by mist spraying) during incubation, whether natural or in an incubator.  DO NOT SPRAY EGGS THEMSELVES incubation takes from 55 to 60 days.  Approximately two weeks prior to hatching, temperature should be drop from 90 to 88F. 

•             Never remove the young from the eggs.  Allow them to emerge completely by themselves.  During this period the young will absorb the yolk and the respiratory system is adjusting to breathing the air. 

This is just a quick reference to the breeding cycle:

• Cool down october 1st.
• Start breeding November 1st.
• Warm-up February 16th.
• Breed till ovulation or April 1st.
• Ovulation February-May.
• Pre-lay shed 16 days later.
•  Eggs laid 26-30 days later.
• Eggs hatch in about 52-60 days.

I really hope this helps and wish you tremendous Success!

Best Wishes,

Living Art Reptiles